licorice extract: Definition, Uses, and Clinical Overview

Posted on February 27, 2026 | by drcosmetic

Definition (What it is) of licorice extract

licorice extract is a botanical ingredient derived from the root of Glycyrrhiza species (commonly Glycyrrhiza glabra).
It is used most often in topical skincare products and sometimes in oral supplements.
In cosmetic care, it is typically included for skin tone support and soothing properties.
It may be used in both everyday cosmetic routines and adjunctive care around dermatologic or aesthetic treatments.

Why licorice extract used (Purpose / benefits)

In cosmetic and aesthetic medicine contexts, licorice extract is primarily used as a cosmeceutical ingredient—a non-prescription skincare component intended to support appearance-related goals. The most common goals are improving the look of uneven skin tone and supporting calm-looking skin when redness or irritation is present.

From a clinical overview perspective, licorice extract is discussed because it contains multiple naturally occurring compounds that can have different skin-relevant actions. Depending on the plant source and how the extract is prepared, formulations may emphasize constituents such as glabridin, liquiritin, and glycyrrhizin/glycyrrhetinic acid derivatives. These are often described in the literature for their potential roles in:

Supporting a more even-looking complexion (often framed as “brightening” in consumer language)
Helping reduce the appearance of post-inflammatory discoloration (color changes that follow acne, rashes, or procedures)
Providing soothing/comforting effects for skin that is prone to visible redness or sensitivity
Offering antioxidant support, which is frequently positioned as part of a broader photodamage-prevention strategy (results vary and depend heavily on sun exposure and overall regimen)

In plastic surgery and procedural dermatology settings, licorice extract is most often encountered indirectly—as one ingredient within a post-procedure moisturizer, serum, pigment-focused regimen, or “maintenance” skincare plan. It is not a substitute for procedural treatment when a structural concern (laxity, scarring, volume loss) is the primary driver of appearance.

Indications (When clinicians use it)

Clinicians may recommend or see licorice extract used in skincare plans for scenarios such as:

Uneven skin tone and dullness concerns in cosmetic skincare routines
Hyperpigmentation presentations such as sun-related dark spots or uneven patches (diagnosis-specific management varies)
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) following acne, dermatitis, or minor procedures
Melasma-support regimens as one component of broader pigment management (often combined with other strategies; response varies)
Redness-prone or sensitive-feeling skin where a gentler, supportive ingredient is preferred
Adjunctive skincare around in-office treatments (for example, in pigment-focused routines alongside sunscreen and other topicals)
Maintenance after procedures that target discoloration (chemical peels, laser/light treatments), when the clinician’s plan allows it

Contraindications / when it’s NOT ideal

licorice extract is not universally suitable, and another ingredient or approach may be preferred in these situations:

Known allergy or prior irritation to licorice-derived ingredients or botanicals in general
Active dermatitis flares or compromised skin barrier where any new active ingredient may worsen irritation (timing and selection vary by clinician and case)
A history of frequent contact dermatitis to fragranced or multi-ingredient products, where simpler formulations may be favored
When a patient is using multiple potentially irritating actives (retinoids, exfoliating acids, benzoyl peroxide), and cumulative irritation is a concern
When a rapid, prescription-level pigment intervention is needed (the appropriate approach depends on diagnosis and clinician assessment)
Use of oral licorice products or concentrated supplements in people with conditions affected by mineralocorticoid-like effects (for example, blood pressure or potassium balance), or those taking interacting medications (this is more relevant to ingestion than topical use)
Preoperative and perioperative periods where surgeons often prefer minimizing non-essential supplements due to interaction and safety uncertainties (policies vary by clinician and case)

How licorice extract works (Technique / mechanism)

General approach: Non-surgical. licorice extract is most commonly used as a topical skincare ingredient (leave-on creams/serums, lotions, or masks). It is not a surgical technique, implant, injectable, or energy-based device treatment.
Primary mechanism (high level): Rather than “tightening” or “resurfacing” tissue mechanically, licorice extract is used to support skin comfort and the appearance of more even tone. In product discussions, it is often associated with calming visible redness and supporting a brighter-looking complexion.
Pigment-related pathways (conceptual): Some licorice-derived constituents are studied for interactions with steps involved in melanin production and distribution. The exact clinical effect depends on the extract composition, concentration, and the underlying cause of pigmentation.
Inflammation/soothing (conceptual): Certain components are described as soothing, which can matter because inflammation can worsen redness and contribute to post-inflammatory discoloration.
Typical modalities/tools:
Over-the-counter skincare products (serums, moisturizers, spot treatments)
Professionally dispensed skincare lines
Compounded topical formulations when clinicians tailor multi-ingredient regimens (compounding practices vary by region and clinic)
It may be paired in a regimen with sunscreen and other pigment-focused topicals; pairing does not guarantee results

licorice extract Procedure overview (How it’s performed)

Because licorice extract is an ingredient rather than an operation, “procedure” in practice usually refers to how it is incorporated into a skincare plan or post-procedure regimen.

Consultation: A clinician reviews the main concern (uneven tone, redness, post-acne marks, melasma patterns) and relevant history (skin sensitivity, prior reactions, current products).
Assessment / planning: Skin type, pigmentation pattern, and triggers (especially sun exposure and inflammation) are considered. The clinician may decide whether licorice extract fits best as a primary cosmeceutical, a supportive add-on, or not at all.
Prep / anesthesia: Not applicable in the surgical sense. In-office, the “prep” is typically cleansing and ensuring the skin barrier is appropriate for active ingredients.
Procedure / application: The product containing licorice extract is selected (vehicle, strength, and combinations vary by material and manufacturer). It may be introduced alone or within a broader routine that can include sunscreen, moisturizers, and other active ingredients.
Closure / dressing: Not applicable. If used after a procedure (like a peel or laser), clinicians may prefer bland barrier-support products first, then introduce actives later depending on healing and irritation risk (timing varies by clinician and case).
Recovery: There is no surgical recovery. Monitoring focuses on tolerance (stinging, dryness, rash) and whether appearance goals are being met over time.

Types / variations

licorice extract is not a single standardized substance across all products. Common real-world variations include:

Topical vs oral
Topical: Most relevant to cosmetic skin goals; systemic exposure is typically lower than ingestion.
Oral: Seen in supplements and traditional preparations; not primarily an aesthetic intervention and can have systemic effects depending on formulation.
Different licorice-derived constituents emphasized
Extracts may be described by their content of compounds such as glabridin or glycyrrhizin derivatives.
Different constituents can be associated with different intended uses (tone-support vs soothing), though overlap exists and outcomes vary.
Formulation (“vehicle”) differences
Serums, gels, creams, lotions, and spot treatments can feel and perform differently on the skin.
Packaging and stability (light/air exposure) can influence how reliably a product performs over time.
Single-ingredient positioning vs combination products
Some products feature licorice extract as the headline ingredient.
Many combine it with other brightening or calming agents (for example, niacinamide, vitamin C derivatives, azelaic acid, retinoids, tranexamic acid, or exfoliating acids). Irritation risk can increase with multi-active routines.
Professional vs consumer skincare
“Medical-grade” is largely a marketing term and not a standardized regulatory category in many regions.
Professionally dispensed products may differ in formulation choices and testing, but performance still varies by manufacturer and individual tolerance.
Anesthesia choices
Not applicable. licorice extract use does not require local anesthesia, sedation, or general anesthesia.

Pros and cons of licorice extract

Pros:

Non-surgical and typically easy to integrate into skincare routines
Commonly used for the appearance of uneven tone and dullness concerns
Often included in soothing-focused formulations for sensitive or redness-prone skin
Can be used as an adjunct to broader pigment and maintenance strategies (results vary)
Available in many product textures and price points (quality varies by manufacturer)
May be an option for people who cannot tolerate stronger pigment-focused agents

Cons:

Product composition is not uniform; “licorice extract” can mean different things across brands
Visible changes, when they occur, are usually gradual and require consistent routine support
Irritation or allergy is possible, especially in multi-ingredient or fragranced products
Not a substitute for diagnosis-driven management of complex pigment disorders
Does not address structural aesthetic concerns (laxity, volume loss, deeper scars) on its own
Oral licorice preparations can have systemic risks and medication interactions (ingestion is a different risk profile than topical use)

Aftercare & longevity

With licorice extract, “aftercare” generally means skin barrier support and consistency, not wound care. Longevity of results (how long improvements in visible tone or calmness last) depends on several factors:

Underlying cause of discoloration or redness: Sun-related pigmentation, melasma, and post-inflammatory marks behave differently and can recur with triggers.
Sun exposure: Ultraviolet and visible light exposure can worsen uneven tone and shorten the durability of pigment-focused routines.
Skin barrier health: Irritation and dryness can make discoloration look more noticeable and can limit which active ingredients are tolerated.
Product formulation and compatibility: The vehicle, concentration, and combination with other actives can influence both results and irritation risk.
Lifestyle factors: Smoking, sleep patterns, and inflammatory triggers can affect overall skin appearance and healing after procedures.
Maintenance and follow-up: Many appearance goals require ongoing maintenance rather than a one-time course, especially when pigment is involved.
Procedural context: After peels, lasers, or resurfacing, clinicians often sequence skincare in phases. Timing and selections vary by clinician and case.

Alternatives / comparisons

licorice extract is one option among many for tone and redness-focused skincare. Comparisons are best kept diagnosis-specific, but high-level distinctions include:

Other topical brightening agents
Hydroquinone (prescription in some regions): Often considered a stronger pigment-suppressing option for select diagnoses, but can be irritating and is used with clinician oversight in many settings.
Azelaic acid: Commonly used for both acne/rosacea-prone skin and pigment concerns; tolerability varies.
Retinoids: Support cell turnover and can help uneven tone over time, but irritation is common, especially early on.
Vitamin C derivatives and niacinamide: Popular for tone support and antioxidant-related positioning; stability and formulation quality vary.
Kojic acid, arbutin, tranexamic acid (topical): Used in pigment-focused regimens with varying evidence and tolerability profiles.
Energy-based devices and in-office treatments
Chemical peels: Can improve uneven tone and texture; depth and downtime vary by peel type and clinician technique.
Laser and light-based treatments (e.g., IPL): May target certain pigment and redness patterns; risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation can be higher in some skin tones and settings.
Microneedling: Sometimes used for tone/texture and acne scarring; results depend on indication and protocol.
Surgical comparisons
Surgery is generally not a primary treatment for pigmentation or diffuse redness. Surgical procedures address structural issues (excess skin, volume changes, scars requiring revision), while topical agents like licorice extract address surface-level appearance goals.

Overall, licorice extract is typically positioned as a supportive topical option—often gentler than some alternatives—rather than a stand-alone solution for every pigment condition.

Common questions (FAQ) of licorice extract

Q: Is licorice extract a medical treatment or a cosmetic ingredient?
It is most commonly used as a cosmetic or cosmeceutical ingredient in topical skincare. Some clinicians include it as part of an overall skin plan, but it is not a surgical treatment or a device-based procedure. The role it plays depends on the product formulation and the skin concern being addressed.

Q: What skin concerns is licorice extract most associated with?
It is frequently used for the appearance of uneven skin tone, dullness, and redness-prone or sensitive-looking skin. It is also commonly discussed in routines for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Outcomes vary based on the underlying cause and the full regimen.

Q: Does licorice extract work for melasma?
It may be included as one component of melasma-support regimens, typically alongside strict photoprotection and other pigment-focused agents. Melasma is often chronic and relapse-prone, so no single ingredient is reliably sufficient. Response varies by clinician and case.

Q: Does using licorice extract hurt or require downtime?
Topical use should not be painful in the way procedures are, but some people experience stinging, dryness, or irritation. There is usually no “downtime,” though irritation can temporarily affect appearance. Tolerance depends on formulation and what other actives are used at the same time.

Q: Will licorice extract cause scarring?
Topical licorice extract does not involve incisions, so it does not cause surgical scars. However, any product that triggers significant irritation or dermatitis could potentially worsen discoloration in susceptible individuals. This risk is generally discussed in the context of sensitive skin and post-inflammatory pigment changes.

Q: Is licorice extract safe?
Many people tolerate topical licorice extract well, but “safe” depends on the individual and the product. Allergy and contact dermatitis are possible with botanical ingredients. Oral licorice products have a different safety profile and can have systemic effects depending on the specific compound and dose.

Q: Can licorice extract be used after laser, peel, or microneedling?
It may be used in some post-procedure routines, but timing matters because freshly treated skin can be more reactive. Many clinicians sequence products—starting with bland barrier-support care and adding actives later. Post-procedure plans vary by clinician and case.

Q: How long does it take to see results from licorice extract?
Cosmetic tone changes, when they occur, are typically gradual and may take weeks to months of consistent use. Faster change is more typical with procedural treatments or certain prescription agents, but those also carry different risks and aftercare needs. Individual timelines vary widely.

Q: How long do results last?
Results often persist only as long as triggers are controlled and the routine is maintained, especially for pigmentation influenced by sun exposure and inflammation. Without maintenance, uneven tone can recur. Longevity varies by anatomy, lifestyle, and the underlying diagnosis.

Q: What affects the cost of products containing licorice extract?
Cost varies by brand, formulation complexity, packaging, concentration standardization, and whether the product is professionally dispensed. Combination products with multiple actives and more extensive testing claims may be priced higher. Price does not guarantee better outcomes for a given individual.